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On another note, this means that there still is no Canadian to climb a confirmed 5.15a. With Ondra projecting a number of 5.15s in the area (including attempting one of Hau’s next to Honour and Glory that he said is 5.15b) there will be many local projects for Canadians to get strong on.

Ondra’s Canadian Sends, So Far Honour and Glory 5.14d First Flight 5.14c onsight Existence Mundane 5.14b onsight Ojas 5.14a onsight Endless Summer 5.13b onsight Whale Back 5.13c osight Army Ants 5.13c flash The Shine 5.14a Leviathan 5.14a Hairball Direct 5.13d first ascent Beam me up Scotts 5.13c

Ondra’s Canadian Sends, So Far

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Adam Ondra Spotted Climbing Around Canmore

Adam Ondra has started his long trip to Canada and has been spotted climbing around Canmore. Ondra will be speaking at the Bow Valley Rock Festival in Canmore in August. The event sold out in only a few hours. He'll be speaking with top climbers Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin.…

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Eight Breakthroughs in a Year, from V17 to 5.15d

It has been one of the most memorable years of climbing since Nalle Hukkataival pushed the grade-bar to the hard-to-imagine V17 grade. Since that big send in October 2016, climbers have been pushing every style of climbing and succeeding with breakthrough ascents. There's many more, but here's eight big climbs…

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Evan Hau's Honour and Glory is Canada's Second 5.15

Evan Hau has made the first ascent of his project at The Coliseum in Echo Canyon on Grotto Mountain near Canmore. He called the steep route Honour and Glory and graded it 5.15a, it's Canada's second 5.15. "The name comes from what gladiators fought for in the Roman Colosseum," said…

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Arthur Schopenhauer has been noted as a misogynist by many such as the philosopher, critic, and author Tom Grimwood. Sale Largest Supplier ASOS DESIGN Curve denim original high waisted skirt in midwash blue Mid wash blue Asos Curve Official Best Prices RMiuNfYb
In a 2008 article Grimwood wrote published in the philosophical journal of Kritique, Grimwood argues that Schopenhauer's misogynistic works have largely escaped attention despite being more noticeable than those of other philosophers such as Nietzsche. Largest Supplier Sale Shop Offer FOOTWEAR Sandals Loriblu Marketable For Sale Clearance Low Shipping Classic 4mOfB
For example, he noted Schopenhauer's works where the latter had argued women only have "meagre" reason comparable that of "the animal" "who lives in the present". Other works he noted consisted of Schopenhauer's argument that women's only role in nature is to further the species through childbirth and hence is equipped with the power to seduce and "capture" men. Brown Piero Leather Loafers BELSIRE MILANO Discount Choice Discount Inexpensive Popular For Sale Sale Original Outlet Cheap Online 5lYaK
He goes on to state that women's cheerfulness is chaotic and disruptive which is why it is crucial to exercise obedience to those with rationality. For her to function beyond her rational subjugator is a threat against men as well as other women, he notes. Schopenhauer also thought women's cheerfulness is an expression of her lack of morality and incapability to understand abstract or objective meaning such as art. [49] This is followed up by his quote "have never been able to produce a single, really great, genuine and original achievement in the fine arts, or bring to anywhere into the world a work of permanent value". [49] Arthur Schopenhauer also blamed women for the fall of King Louis XIII and triggering the French Revolution, in which he was later quoted as saying: [49]

"At all events, a false position of the female sex, such as has its most acute symptom in our lady-business, is a fundamental defect of the state of society. Proceeding from the heart of this, it is bound to spread its noxious influence to all parts." [49]

Schopenhauer has also been accused of misogyny for his essay "On Women" (Über die Weiber), in which he expressed his opposition to what he called "Teutonico-Christian stupidity" on female affairs. He argued that women are "by nature meant to obey" as they are "childish, frivolous, and short sighted". [3] He claimed that no woman had ever produced great art or "any work of permanent value". [3] He also argued that women did not possess any real beauty: [50]

It is only a man whose intellect is clouded by his sexual impulse that could give the name of the fair sex to that under-sized, narrow-shouldered, broad-hipped, and short-legged race; for the whole beauty of the sex is bound up with this impulse. Instead of calling them beautiful there would be more warrant for describing women as the unaesthetic sex.

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VAR Is Making Penalties Take Longer. Is This Icing The Kickers?

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A study of more than 17,000 in-game penalties shows that longer delays only help the keepers.

By Albert Larcada

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Johannes Eisele / AFP / Getty Images)

A lasting effect of the 2018 World Cup will be the introduction of the video assistant referee , or VAR, and its ramifications on a huge part of soccer — penalties. The most obvious consequence has been the spike in total penalties called: Through the first semifinal, 10 more penalties have been awarded at this World Cup than at any past tournament. Other effects, though, have been less apparent.

One unanticipated but logical repercussion is the increase in the amount of time between the moment of the penalty-drawing foul and the actual penalty kick. Does that matter? Ben Lyttleton, who wrote the seminal book on penalties, “ Womens Lace Closed Toe Ballet Flats EVANS Cheap Real Finishline Largest Supplier Cheap Online Sale Collections Big Sale Sale Online 6ygYE8e
,” said he had not seen any research on the relationship between wait time and success. “But I do have (quite a lot of) anecdotal evidence saying that it’s more stressful the longer the wait,” he said. “The players have more time to overthink it!”

To research this issue, we at TruMedia Networks used the extensive event-level database of analytics firm Opta Sports to find the game clock for more than 17,000 penalties (not shootouts) dating as far back as the 1966 World Cup. This covered domestic and international competitions, men’s and women’s — from youth competitions such as the Asian U-23 Championship to top leagues like the Premier League. We also tagged the time of the related foul that led to the penalty kick, finding the time between the foul and the actual penalty kick — which we’ll call “wait time.”

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The average wait time in the entire data set was 76 seconds, and the median was 67 seconds. Ninety-two percent of kicks happened between 40 and 150 seconds after the foul, and about 4 percent of kicks occurred after 150 seconds.

For the majority of penalties, wait time has no noticeable effect. The difference in success rate is generally negligible between waiting 40 seconds and 150 seconds. But once you start waiting longer than that, the likelihood of scoring starts to fall.

The success rate of penalties with a wait time of less than 150 seconds is 76 percent, while the success rate of penalties with a wait time of greater than 150 seconds is 73 percent. With the relatively large sample of penalties we have, Gel Saga sneakers Yellow amp; Orange Asics Low Price Cheap Online Enjoy Online UtFTWuflY

GLAAD President and CEO Sarah Kate Ellis issued a response to Johansson’s statement that read, “Scarlett Johansson’s announcement, together with the transgender voices who spoke out about this film, are game changers for the future of transgender images in Hollywood. Hollywood changed how Americans understand gay and lesbian lives, and TV is starting to do the same for transgender people with authentic transgender portrayals being major hits with critics and audiences. The film industry has a real opportunity to do the same.”

Johansson’s decision follows a week’s worth of backlash from trans actors and advocates , fueled even more by her initial response that was issued via a rep to Bustle . “Tell them that they can be directed to Jeffrey Tambor, Jared Leto, and Felicity Huffman’s reps for comment,” read the statement, referring to the awards won by those three actors in playing trans roles.

“I wouldn’t be as upset if I was getting in the same rooms as Jennifer Lawrence and Scarlett for cis roles, but we know that’s not the case,” Transparent ‘s Trace Lysette tweeted at the time. “And not only do you play us and steal our narrative and our opportunity,” she added, “but you pat yourselves on the back with trophies and accolades for mimicking what we have lived… so twisted.”

Sense8 ‘s Jamie Clayton echoed the sentiment by tweeting, “Actors who are trans never even get to audition FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN ROLES OF TRANS CHARACTERS. THATS THE REAL ISSUE. WE CANT EVEN GET IN THE ROOM.”

And not only do you play us and steal our narrative and our opportunity but you pat yourselves on the back with trophies and accolades for mimicking what we have lived… so twisted. I’m so done…

— Trace Lysette (@tracelysette)

Actors who are trans never even get to audition FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN ROLES OF TRANS CHARACTERS. THATS THE REAL ISSUE. WE CANT EVEN GET IN THE ROOM. Cast actors WHO ARE TRANS as NON TRANS CHARACTERS. I DARE YOU

— Jamie Clayton (@MsJamieClayton)

Nashville ‘s Jen Richards pointed to her comments regarding Matt Bomer’s casting in the film Anything in explaining another reason for the backlash. As she wrote about Bomer, “Every time a cis man gets applauded for bravely portraying a transgender woman on screen, every time he picks up an award for it while sporting a tuxedo, we’re reinforcing the belief that at the end of the day, a trans woman is still really a man.” The same principles apply to cisgender women playing trans male roles.

Richards now writes, “To exhibit the spirit of generosity I earnestly want to see more of, I am going to take Scarlett Johansson at her word that she listened to feedback, realized that despite her intentions this was going to cause harm, and made the right decision to step down. Well done.”

To exhibit the spirit of generosity I earnestly want to see more of, I am going to take Scarlett Johansson at her word that she listened to feedback, realized that despite her intentions this was going to cause harm, and made the right decision to step down. Well done.

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